Teaching Your Dog to Stay

The use of a word, to keep saying your dog is repetitive, if you decide for your dog to learn "sit" the word "low" and "state" means to remain in position until I am or released asking for something else do.


But the feeling free, the word "continue", use them if you are happy.
A sit-stay is useful if something happens and you need short-term control. A bass stay meaningful long-term control. A state of life is useful if your dog is still able to investigate or care.
The methods of collection and lure / reward, a reward waiting for the seat, stockings, or is, the longer growing. Pure simplicity! Example, ask your dog to sit down and highlight and reward him when
it does. Next time, wait until your dog to sit still for one second in scoring and worthwhile. If your dog ahead, ask him to sit down and try again. It would not take long to understand not to (do not cry "Stay!") Remain in position, the more the reward.
If your dog to stay for one second reliable, wait two seconds before marking and rewarding place. Than three seconds, five, eight, ten, fifteen, twenty, and so on. Vary the length of time that you ask
Your dog may remain at a level well below your target audience.
For example, if it is reliable to stay with 1 / 32 down, make more and will reward him for three to ten seconds. With this approach, you'll be surprised how quickly your dog learns to stay long enough.
How to make a difficult task, you must follow a more generous reward. So if your dog is staying for 15 seconds for the first time, he was a reward of three small jackpot busy earning
In contrast to this point.

Deciding If Agility Is Right for You and Your Dog

You may be wondering if agility is something you’d like to commit

to doing with your dog. Drop by a fun match or even an agility trial

and watch what goes on. (Be aware that you may be watching competition,

which is something I don’t cover in this book. If you’re

interested in getting started in competition, check out the agility

books in the reference list at the back of this book.)

Unless you’re planning on participating, don’t bring your dog

just yet.Watch the dogs as they go through the course. Notice the

teamwork between the handler and her dog. Both members of this

partnership have a special bond of trust in each other.

“My dog can’t do that!” you might say. “Look at all the work

that went into training!”Yes, while training is part of agility, it’s not

as hard as you think nor is it harsh or rigorous.The agility training in

this book uses only positive methods that are fun for you and your

dog.

So let’s look at possible reasons why you might think agility isn’t

right for you:

• My dog is a mixed breed. Fact: Mixed breeds do very well in agility

and all sanctioning organizations allow mixed breeds in competition,

except AKC.

• I’ve never trained my dog to do anything before. Fact: It’s never too late

to train a dog to do fun things.

• My dog could never do that. Fact: Unless your dog is older than eight years old, has hip dysplasia, or is incapacitated in some way, he can do agility. Don’t limit your dog by your preconceived notions. Even dogs older than eight can do agility in a limited fashion if they are in good health.

• My dog is too small (or too large) for agility. Fact:Toy breeds and giant

breeds all compete in agility. I’ve seen Chihuahuas, Great Danes,

and Basset Hounds do agility successfully.

• I don’t have time to do anything with my dog. Fact:Why do you have

a dog in the first place? A dog is a commitment and a companion,

not an animal to be relegated to the backyard. If you have a dog,

part of that commitment is to exercise her.

• Agility equipment costs too much. Fact:You can put together some

agility equipment with just basic hand tools, and you can purchase

some very inexpensive pieces as well. Agility clubs and training

centers often have drop-in classes that allow your dog to train on

equipment for a few bucks.

• I don’t know where I could go to learn agility. Fact:There are agility

trainers, classes, and clubs throughout the United States including

Alaska, Montana, and Hawaii. Internationally, there are clubs in

Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Bermuda, Canada, Columbia,

Croatia, England, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland,

Italy, Japan, Mexico, Netherlands, New Zealand, Peru, Portugal,

Scotland, South Africa, Spain, Sweden, and Switzerland, and more

appear every day. If there isn’t a club nearby, you can always get

information, equipment, and support on the Internet.

• I have a disability. Fact: Many people with disabilities have trained

and competed in agility. Since you’re considering agility for fun and

not for competition, this is a great way to interact with your dog.

• I’m out of shape (or overweight, or older, or can’t run a lot). Fact:While

competitive teams may run around, agility is something you can

do at your own pace and at your leisure. Some people who can’t

run much have taught their dogs to run the course without them

by directing the dog toward the obstacles.

There are some legitimate reasons for not trying agility. These

include:

• Your dog is too old and feeble or has an injury or medical condition

that precludes him from doing agility without getting injured

or harming his health.

• Your dog is aggressive toward people or other dogs.Work out the

behavioral problems with an animal behaviorist before exposing

your pet to others.

• Your dog is too young.Wait until your puppy is about six months

old before starting agility. Then jump him only at heights below

his hock and take extra precautions so he doesn’t risk injury

before he’s fully grown.

CHOOSING PUPPY AND SIMPLE TIPS TO TRAIN

Choose may not be easy for some people, it takes time and maturity needed to think. Do not let its intention to maintain the animal, but it brings new problems, such as the emergence of the disease. Here are tips on choosing a puppy animals:

•  Choose a dog who is under 8 weeks, at this age, usually dogs can already be independent and not risky to death at a young age. although already looks great but you can still do a lot in training for dogs. 
• Check the front of the puppy, whether wet or dry nose? 
• What is the state of the gums and teeth are normal? Does the puppy's eyes clear? Is there a pile of dirt in the ears of a puppy you choose? 
• Then check the body, if his stomach is not swollen or look normal? This symptom usually shows irregular food handling in the dog by the dog's previous owner or seller. 
• Inspect the genitals, his testicles should be clearly visible, there is no infection or dirty. It is trivial to prevent puppy has diarrhea or intestinal worms. 
• Check the state of dog hair, are tangled and too dry? Is propagated a lot of fleas and parasites? 
• See the legs, his muscles are functioning properly? 
• Study the pedigree dog to the dog's previous owner or seller, both offspring (race) or about medical history, whether in the vaccination or not. 
• It is very important to keep the dog's health plan in order not to disease-infected dogs. If you have difficulty, it is highly recommended consult with the nearest vet. 

Here are some tips to train your dog to defecate in the space provided:

• Provide training as early as possible 
• Bring your dog to defecate on the spot in accordance with the schedule. 
• Until the age of 7-8 weeks, the dog has not been able to do this exercise correctly, usually dogs only do a few days just to throw dirt on the place that you provide in accordance with the schedule. 
• In the first 7-10 weeks, banish your dog at every meal to finished dogs defecate, get used to this every day to become routine. 
• Take your dog out of the house every morning 2-3 hours every day, then after a nap or after eating and drinking. 
• Provide also a place to defecate in the yard outside your home, and not to be removable so that the habit is not confuse your dog. 
• At the time of exercise, after you dispose of dog feces is in place, then you must be patient and silent without making any movement, so your dog will get bored and will remember your goals took him to the place, then after doing defecate touch praise him with a pat or stroke him. 
• Immediately take him out when I saw your dog around in circles like digging the soil. 
• Do not yell or punish him if the training results have not shown results, be patient until the dog understands your intent.

ATTACK-TRAINED vs. NATURAL PROTECTOR

Cheer up! Even if you are convinced that the classification of
attack-trained" could make a dog into quite a liability, you can still
have the right guard dog whether you need a reliable alarm or a physical
protector. Whatever little protection you require from a dog, you will
profit from comparing two classifications of dogs at the highest level
of guard work, which is man-stopping. One of these is the
attack-trained dog who has been expertly agitated to a point where he
identifies persons who act in a certain way, or enter certain places, as
human varmints whom he should attack. The second kind is the natural
guard dog who is motivated by inherent temperament traits to accept
responsibility for the protection of persons and property and to use the
proper amount of force to do that job.

The advantages of an attack-trained dog are:

1. Agitation can sometimes put suspicion into an overly trusting dog,
stiffen up an indecisive dog, or break the "taboo" a dog might have
against biting a person, thus making possible varying degrees of
usefulness in dogs who could not otherwise qualify for guard dog work.

2. Attack training makes it easy to set up test situations in which a
dog can demonstrate his readiness to bite a person who acts in a certain
way.

3. An attack-trained dog may make an all-out assault more certainly in
some situations than would a natural guard dog.

4. His reputation of being attack-trained may discourage intruders.


The disadvantages of an attack-trained dog are:

1. In the event of law suits, his classification of "attack-trained"
would prejudice a court.

2. He can be stimulated to attack under the most regrettable
circumstances by a person who may innocently act like an agitator.

3. The patterns of reaction that trigger him will often override his
discernment and good judgment.

4. Although the suspicious moves of an agitator can be purposefully
related to trespassing, the theft of garden tools, or threats to a
person, and can result in a dog clobbering people who "make the wrong
moves," they can never provide the fine discrimination that is based on
a sense of responsibility.

5. The impression made by attack training will often give undeserved
accreditation to an inferior dog.

6. A dog that needs to be shut away for the protection of the innocent
will probably not be close at hand when he is needed.

7. He can be teased into a booby trap much easier than a natural guard.

8. If lightly agitated in the apparent hope that he will "bite
lightly," he will have a half-hearted attitude that will soon fade to
nothing.


The advantages of a natural guard dog are:

1. Motivated by a responsibility for what is his, he won't leave his
own property to bite someone who happens to act in a certain way.

2. He is more completely aware of his surroundings and less subject to
distraction than an attack-trained dog would be.

3. His judgment is better: He won't leave the baby and run out toward
the road to investigate the waving motions of a surveyor.

4. He is discriminating in his enforcement as well as in his decisions.
It is not uncommon for him merely to warn friends who try to come near
his baby but attack a stranger who takes the same liberties.

5. In the case of a bad bite under doubtful circumstances he will be
regarded in court as a dog who did "what came naturally" instead of as a
dog "trained to attack human beings."


The disadvantages of a natural guard dog are:

1. He is much more difficult to obtain.

2. Because he is motivated to protect something by "what he feels"
rather than to fight something because certain patterns tell him to do
so, he is harder to test and demonstrate.

3. He may have less psychological effect than a dog reputed to be
attack-trained.

4. In some situations he may only warn or threaten, where the agitated
dog would make an all-out attack.

If, after reading these comparisons, you decide you want a dog to make
an all-out attack each time he is stimulated, and you are going to be
with him every moment he is on duty, as with the police dog, you will
find instructions for that type of training in the Police Dog Section.
You may decide that, since you are without acquaintances who would ever
call on you, the dog most useful to you would be one who uses force on
everyone who enters his premises. The section on plant-protection dogs
will take you to such a goal. Talk to your lawyer before you decide on
either of these two types of dogs for personal protection, and get costs
from an agent on how much liability insurance you should carry.
In the name of sweet reason, do not try to reduce the risk of having an
attack-trained dog by giving "light agitation" with the thought that
your dog will only bite lightly. As for that smooth-sounding asininity,
"attacks only on command," what sort of a nut would want a dog who would
not defend him when he was asleep or voiceless from a case of
laryngitis?
You may conclude, after weighing the foregoing caveat, that some kind of
a natural guard dog would be the best kind for you.

Choosing a puppy dog Talent

Many positive things can be done if we can figure out what will happen in the future. Similarly with our puppy. We definitely want to know if the new dog puppies we buy or get from our new parent we can train these dogs and excel in the future, or even have a temperament that is less good.
For that we need to know early to predict how the trend of their properties. If the puppy has a bad character or temperament, does not mean he has no hope. It can still be repaired and it is our responsibility to change it.
There are couple of types of tests to predict the tendency of the nature of the puppy, and its function is more informative and later we as pemiliklah that should fix it.
This test aims to examine the capacity of dominant puppy in a special group. There are couple of steps to be able to find the puppy belongs to us, including which categories.
A. Rank Test
- Explore Behaviour:

    Bring the puppy that you touch to a new place. Perform these tests one by one the puppies.

    Look at the puppy wants to explore the new environment.

    Rate A, B, C and D as an appraisal.

    A value given to a puppy who will explore the new environment.

    Value of B is given to a puppy that barks and tries to explore a new environment.

    Value of C is given to the puppy feel lost, circling, whining as he looked around him.

    D value is given to a puppy who did not move anything.
- Confident to Stranger:

    After 30 seconds, appears a stranger and then see whether the puppy is approached with confidence or just shy not even approached.

    A value given to a puppy that comes with confidence and biting.

    Then try to run, see if the puppy has a desire to follow.

    A value given to a puppy that ran followed with confidence.
- Response to Visual Stimulus:

    We can throw foreign objects, such as a plastic bottle without touching the puppies.

    A value given to a puppy that jumps to the object and took a bite.

    Value of B is given to the puppy's attention to the object carefully, and then play with it and learn it.

    Value of C is given to puppies who tend to fear and keep a distance with the object or moving away even a whimper.

    D value is given to a puppy who looks scared, get out quickly while whining and being away from the object even in intervals of several seconds.
- Response to Auditory Stimuli:

    By the time you hear a strange, like a trumpet or a pan that was hit hard, so our puppies can be given following the assessment.

    A value given to a puppy who raised his head and his ears stand leads to the sound source and he remained in place.

    Value of B is given to a puppy who fled in fear, but finally dare to approach and wait for the next reaction.

    Value of C is given to a puppy who fled in fear but in the end dare to approach if called upon by the Handler.

    D value is given to a puppy who fled in fear and dare not return.
- Dominance Rank:

    Terlentangkan puppy with all four legs facing upward and gently hold her breasts for 30 seconds, and see what his reaction.

    A value given for the puppy to bite and try to fight, and the value of E for the puppy quiet and not do anything.
- Social Dominance:

    Hugging / hug puppies and touch his head toward the back.

    A value given to a puppy who dodge and fight back and the value of E for a puppy that does not do anything.
- Social Hardness:

    Now pick up the puppy by using two hands on his chest.

    A value given for the puppy to bite and try to fight, and the value of E for the puppy quiet and not do anything.
- Alpha Test (Do together):

    Giving food to the puppies where they should have access to the food bowl.

    A value given to a puppy who does not fight, eat in peace until he sat down and no other puppy who came to disturb him.

    Value of B is given to puppies often change positions when eating, but still eat in peace.

    C values ​​are given for each puppy that barks.

    D value is given to the puppy still wait until the others finished eating.
- When feeding:

    A value given for the best first puppy managed to reach the nipple.

    Value of B is given to a puppy that both reach the nipple.

    Value of C is given to the puppy reaching the nipple but still want to choose your nipples sucked.

    D value is given to a puppy who fought to get the nipple.
     
B. Test Environment
For the puppy that has passed the Rank Test, was taken to a park with a level of distraction (distraction) middle above and see the puppy's behavior.
C. Biting Test
Take the puppy to a place without any distraction (distraction) and give a towel, cloth or tug to be bitten. Look at the attitude of the puppy to bite.

    If puppies bite and still = good

    If puppies bite and noisy = tolerable, can be trained on the training

    If puppies bite and chew ='ll take the train

    Throw a metal pipe, if it is taken back that means good
Biting and biting and quiet with noisy prey drive is the same, only different emotions.

From the overall test above, in general, we can assess that puppy with the highest value of A, it is definitely an Alpha.
Sometimes, mistakes can happen because the owner assessment "miss" in the behavior of the children noticed the dog during a test performed.


From the above test results, then we can determine the puppy Alpha, Beta, Omega, Mid and Low Rank Rank with the character traits and tasks below.


- Alpha (Male / Female)

    Genetic / True Alpha: Alpha from within him.

    Pack Alpha: Alpha in litternya.
Duties: The leader, protector packs, decision makers, controlling breeding.
Character: Confident, dominant, intelligence, self-calm demeanor, a loner.
- Beta
Duties: Actors and run the command, discipline.
Character: Aggressive, domineering, ostentatious, agitators, intelligence.
- Omega
Duties: Maintain harmony pack, melt the tense situation.
Character: A good level of communication, high tolerance, can work together, intelligence.
- Mid Rank
Duties: The Hunter, puppy sitter, teaching dogs hunting for teens, the largest population.
Character: Following orders, the high levels of learning, can work together, moderate to high levels of violence.
- Low Rank
Duties: Supervision, the giver knows the dangers of foreign matters.
Character: Soft and very sensitive.

start train your dog

Trained dogs are “free” dogs. They are welcome almost anywhere because
they behave themselves around people and other dogs, they stay when told,
and they come when called. They are a pleasure to take for a walk and can
be let loose for a romp in the park. They can be taken on trips and family outings.
They are members of the family in every sense of the word.
On the other hand, untrained dogs have few, if any, privileges. When guests come,
they are locked away because they are too unruly. When the family sits down to
eat, they are locked up or put outside because of begging at the table. They are
never allowed off leash because they don’t come when called. Nobody wants to
take them for a walk because they pull, and family outings with such a nuisance
are unimaginable.
Your dog—for simplicity, we call him Felix throughout this book—has a life
expectancy of 8 to 16 years. Now is the time to ensure that these years are going
to be mutually rewarding. For your sanity and his safety, train your dog. Teach
him what every good dog should know.