Teaching Your Dog to Stay

The use of a word, to keep saying your dog is repetitive, if you decide for your dog to learn "sit" the word "low" and "state" means to remain in position until I am or released asking for something else do.


But the feeling free, the word "continue", use them if you are happy.
A sit-stay is useful if something happens and you need short-term control. A bass stay meaningful long-term control. A state of life is useful if your dog is still able to investigate or care.
The methods of collection and lure / reward, a reward waiting for the seat, stockings, or is, the longer growing. Pure simplicity! Example, ask your dog to sit down and highlight and reward him when
it does. Next time, wait until your dog to sit still for one second in scoring and worthwhile. If your dog ahead, ask him to sit down and try again. It would not take long to understand not to (do not cry "Stay!") Remain in position, the more the reward.
If your dog to stay for one second reliable, wait two seconds before marking and rewarding place. Than three seconds, five, eight, ten, fifteen, twenty, and so on. Vary the length of time that you ask
Your dog may remain at a level well below your target audience.
For example, if it is reliable to stay with 1 / 32 down, make more and will reward him for three to ten seconds. With this approach, you'll be surprised how quickly your dog learns to stay long enough.
How to make a difficult task, you must follow a more generous reward. So if your dog is staying for 15 seconds for the first time, he was a reward of three small jackpot busy earning
In contrast to this point.

Territorial aggression

The characteristic of territorial aggression in dogs protection estimated since domestication and selective breeding. This property varies considerably in dogs, dogs that show absolutely no protective nature, others, like the attack to defend their territory and try to defend its territorial expansion.The development of protective land in dogs is linked to sexual maturity. A dog is the most easily agree, but not overly protective behaviors performed when the instinct of protection is first addressed at this time appears.

Owner of livestock guarding dogs have a responsibility to teach their dogs to the limit of their care. Be careful not to set limits Protect your dog, lest he cease all protection. You want to teach him what you keep threatening and what you do. You will also want to teach him that when you are at home, the decision on who is allowed in your home that does not work.

The problems are barking warnings of problems of territorial protection. By controlling excessive barking of a dog, the owner takes the first step to solve a problem of territorial protection.

It is important to note that when you see a dog in the protector of less than six months, think it's likely that what you really see the aggression is fear. One way to distinguish between fear of aggression protective aggression is the dog reacts to evaluate in different contexts. The guard dog is friendly towards strangers in his territory, even if it is accompanied by its owner. The frightened dog behaves aggressively towardstrangers everywhere.

Another mistake people make is protective in terms of the myth of television and literature, which naturally protect their own dogs immortalized. Dogs instinctively protect their territory, usually prefer to chase intruders rather than stay in a confrontation. They protect themselves and their food and toys, but rarely for the protection of persons, except when a child is to replace a puppy and is protected by a dog. The dogs are trained to man (and note that training is required for a dog with a good temperament to attack people), defending the dog to attack on himself, or by the use of its instinct to kill prey attack.

Dogs protect their owners as a source of affection and food, as much as they would to protect bone. Some owners believe that's protective. Dogs that kind of direct aggression in humans and other dogs. Usually the dog is stroked to sit on the lap of the owner, if someone non-threatening approach. The dog growls when the person to keep them away. The owner must immediately flush the dog in her lap, rather than flattered by this behavior. This behavior can also look like jealousy, especially when a dog growls at another dog to keep him away from the Owner.

The watchdog perfect is someone who is confident around people and is not afraid of them. In fact, he is very friendly with people. He barks when someone is unfaithful to your property, but ignored by children riding on bicycles. He keeps barking on command, but continued to keep a watchful eye. If you tell someone at the door is correct, he voluntarily friendl openings to him or her. He would not allow anyone into your home if you are not just for a few friends or family members, he knows good home. They feel safer when you're home alone you will be notified if someone is coming, and yet you are never afraid of your dog biting someone when you have company. Because he is not afraid of man, if he does not defend its territory, it will not hesitate. This type of dog is the product of good race, good breeding and good training.

bark, woof, arf: CHOOSING PUPPY AND SIMPLE TIPS TO TRAIN

bark, woof, arf: CHOOSING PUPPY AND SIMPLE TIPS TO TRAIN: Choose may not be easy for some people, it takes time and maturity needed to think. Do not let its intention to maintain the animal, but it ...

Deciding If Agility Is Right for You and Your Dog

You may be wondering if agility is something you’d like to commit

to doing with your dog. Drop by a fun match or even an agility trial

and watch what goes on. (Be aware that you may be watching competition,

which is something I don’t cover in this book. If you’re

interested in getting started in competition, check out the agility

books in the reference list at the back of this book.)

Unless you’re planning on participating, don’t bring your dog

just yet.Watch the dogs as they go through the course. Notice the

teamwork between the handler and her dog. Both members of this

partnership have a special bond of trust in each other.

“My dog can’t do that!” you might say. “Look at all the work

that went into training!”Yes, while training is part of agility, it’s not

as hard as you think nor is it harsh or rigorous.The agility training in

this book uses only positive methods that are fun for you and your

dog.

So let’s look at possible reasons why you might think agility isn’t

right for you:

• My dog is a mixed breed. Fact: Mixed breeds do very well in agility

and all sanctioning organizations allow mixed breeds in competition,

except AKC.

• I’ve never trained my dog to do anything before. Fact: It’s never too late

to train a dog to do fun things.

• My dog could never do that. Fact: Unless your dog is older than eight years old, has hip dysplasia, or is incapacitated in some way, he can do agility. Don’t limit your dog by your preconceived notions. Even dogs older than eight can do agility in a limited fashion if they are in good health.

• My dog is too small (or too large) for agility. Fact:Toy breeds and giant

breeds all compete in agility. I’ve seen Chihuahuas, Great Danes,

and Basset Hounds do agility successfully.

• I don’t have time to do anything with my dog. Fact:Why do you have

a dog in the first place? A dog is a commitment and a companion,

not an animal to be relegated to the backyard. If you have a dog,

part of that commitment is to exercise her.

• Agility equipment costs too much. Fact:You can put together some

agility equipment with just basic hand tools, and you can purchase

some very inexpensive pieces as well. Agility clubs and training

centers often have drop-in classes that allow your dog to train on

equipment for a few bucks.

• I don’t know where I could go to learn agility. Fact:There are agility

trainers, classes, and clubs throughout the United States including

Alaska, Montana, and Hawaii. Internationally, there are clubs in

Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Bermuda, Canada, Columbia,

Croatia, England, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland,

Italy, Japan, Mexico, Netherlands, New Zealand, Peru, Portugal,

Scotland, South Africa, Spain, Sweden, and Switzerland, and more

appear every day. If there isn’t a club nearby, you can always get

information, equipment, and support on the Internet.

• I have a disability. Fact: Many people with disabilities have trained

and competed in agility. Since you’re considering agility for fun and

not for competition, this is a great way to interact with your dog.

• I’m out of shape (or overweight, or older, or can’t run a lot). Fact:While

competitive teams may run around, agility is something you can

do at your own pace and at your leisure. Some people who can’t

run much have taught their dogs to run the course without them

by directing the dog toward the obstacles.

There are some legitimate reasons for not trying agility. These

include:

• Your dog is too old and feeble or has an injury or medical condition

that precludes him from doing agility without getting injured

or harming his health.

• Your dog is aggressive toward people or other dogs.Work out the

behavioral problems with an animal behaviorist before exposing

your pet to others.

• Your dog is too young.Wait until your puppy is about six months

old before starting agility. Then jump him only at heights below

his hock and take extra precautions so he doesn’t risk injury

before he’s fully grown.

CHOOSING PUPPY AND SIMPLE TIPS TO TRAIN

Choose may not be easy for some people, it takes time and maturity needed to think. Do not let its intention to maintain the animal, but it brings new problems, such as the emergence of the disease. Here are tips on choosing a puppy animals:

•  Choose a dog who is under 8 weeks, at this age, usually dogs can already be independent and not risky to death at a young age. although already looks great but you can still do a lot in training for dogs. 
• Check the front of the puppy, whether wet or dry nose? 
• What is the state of the gums and teeth are normal? Does the puppy's eyes clear? Is there a pile of dirt in the ears of a puppy you choose? 
• Then check the body, if his stomach is not swollen or look normal? This symptom usually shows irregular food handling in the dog by the dog's previous owner or seller. 
• Inspect the genitals, his testicles should be clearly visible, there is no infection or dirty. It is trivial to prevent puppy has diarrhea or intestinal worms. 
• Check the state of dog hair, are tangled and too dry? Is propagated a lot of fleas and parasites? 
• See the legs, his muscles are functioning properly? 
• Study the pedigree dog to the dog's previous owner or seller, both offspring (race) or about medical history, whether in the vaccination or not. 
• It is very important to keep the dog's health plan in order not to disease-infected dogs. If you have difficulty, it is highly recommended consult with the nearest vet. 

Here are some tips to train your dog to defecate in the space provided:

• Provide training as early as possible 
• Bring your dog to defecate on the spot in accordance with the schedule. 
• Until the age of 7-8 weeks, the dog has not been able to do this exercise correctly, usually dogs only do a few days just to throw dirt on the place that you provide in accordance with the schedule. 
• In the first 7-10 weeks, banish your dog at every meal to finished dogs defecate, get used to this every day to become routine. 
• Take your dog out of the house every morning 2-3 hours every day, then after a nap or after eating and drinking. 
• Provide also a place to defecate in the yard outside your home, and not to be removable so that the habit is not confuse your dog. 
• At the time of exercise, after you dispose of dog feces is in place, then you must be patient and silent without making any movement, so your dog will get bored and will remember your goals took him to the place, then after doing defecate touch praise him with a pat or stroke him. 
• Immediately take him out when I saw your dog around in circles like digging the soil. 
• Do not yell or punish him if the training results have not shown results, be patient until the dog understands your intent.

ATTACK-TRAINED vs. NATURAL PROTECTOR

Cheer up! Even if you are convinced that the classification of
attack-trained" could make a dog into quite a liability, you can still
have the right guard dog whether you need a reliable alarm or a physical
protector. Whatever little protection you require from a dog, you will
profit from comparing two classifications of dogs at the highest level
of guard work, which is man-stopping. One of these is the
attack-trained dog who has been expertly agitated to a point where he
identifies persons who act in a certain way, or enter certain places, as
human varmints whom he should attack. The second kind is the natural
guard dog who is motivated by inherent temperament traits to accept
responsibility for the protection of persons and property and to use the
proper amount of force to do that job.

The advantages of an attack-trained dog are:

1. Agitation can sometimes put suspicion into an overly trusting dog,
stiffen up an indecisive dog, or break the "taboo" a dog might have
against biting a person, thus making possible varying degrees of
usefulness in dogs who could not otherwise qualify for guard dog work.

2. Attack training makes it easy to set up test situations in which a
dog can demonstrate his readiness to bite a person who acts in a certain
way.

3. An attack-trained dog may make an all-out assault more certainly in
some situations than would a natural guard dog.

4. His reputation of being attack-trained may discourage intruders.


The disadvantages of an attack-trained dog are:

1. In the event of law suits, his classification of "attack-trained"
would prejudice a court.

2. He can be stimulated to attack under the most regrettable
circumstances by a person who may innocently act like an agitator.

3. The patterns of reaction that trigger him will often override his
discernment and good judgment.

4. Although the suspicious moves of an agitator can be purposefully
related to trespassing, the theft of garden tools, or threats to a
person, and can result in a dog clobbering people who "make the wrong
moves," they can never provide the fine discrimination that is based on
a sense of responsibility.

5. The impression made by attack training will often give undeserved
accreditation to an inferior dog.

6. A dog that needs to be shut away for the protection of the innocent
will probably not be close at hand when he is needed.

7. He can be teased into a booby trap much easier than a natural guard.

8. If lightly agitated in the apparent hope that he will "bite
lightly," he will have a half-hearted attitude that will soon fade to
nothing.


The advantages of a natural guard dog are:

1. Motivated by a responsibility for what is his, he won't leave his
own property to bite someone who happens to act in a certain way.

2. He is more completely aware of his surroundings and less subject to
distraction than an attack-trained dog would be.

3. His judgment is better: He won't leave the baby and run out toward
the road to investigate the waving motions of a surveyor.

4. He is discriminating in his enforcement as well as in his decisions.
It is not uncommon for him merely to warn friends who try to come near
his baby but attack a stranger who takes the same liberties.

5. In the case of a bad bite under doubtful circumstances he will be
regarded in court as a dog who did "what came naturally" instead of as a
dog "trained to attack human beings."


The disadvantages of a natural guard dog are:

1. He is much more difficult to obtain.

2. Because he is motivated to protect something by "what he feels"
rather than to fight something because certain patterns tell him to do
so, he is harder to test and demonstrate.

3. He may have less psychological effect than a dog reputed to be
attack-trained.

4. In some situations he may only warn or threaten, where the agitated
dog would make an all-out attack.

If, after reading these comparisons, you decide you want a dog to make
an all-out attack each time he is stimulated, and you are going to be
with him every moment he is on duty, as with the police dog, you will
find instructions for that type of training in the Police Dog Section.
You may decide that, since you are without acquaintances who would ever
call on you, the dog most useful to you would be one who uses force on
everyone who enters his premises. The section on plant-protection dogs
will take you to such a goal. Talk to your lawyer before you decide on
either of these two types of dogs for personal protection, and get costs
from an agent on how much liability insurance you should carry.
In the name of sweet reason, do not try to reduce the risk of having an
attack-trained dog by giving "light agitation" with the thought that
your dog will only bite lightly. As for that smooth-sounding asininity,
"attacks only on command," what sort of a nut would want a dog who would
not defend him when he was asleep or voiceless from a case of
laryngitis?
You may conclude, after weighing the foregoing caveat, that some kind of
a natural guard dog would be the best kind for you.

Training Program for Dog & Children in a Family

THE TRAINING PROGRAM FOR CHILDREN
Even if you don’t have a dog in your home, there are plenty of them
outside your door. If your child is frustrated in trying to get a dog
into the household, he or she will be that much more eager to meet
any dogs that present themselves. Teaching the child how to meet
dogs is both essential to safety and a good indication of the child’s
level of control.
If a dog is in the company of humans, children should first
politely ask permission to pet the dog. If the human says no for
whatever reason, that’s the end of the matter. (The dog may not get
along with children, the owner may be afraid of liability issues or the
dog may just have been brushed for the show ring.)
If the human says yes, the child should extend a hand for the dog
to sniff. This is a friendly gesture, akin to a human handshake, and
avoids startling the dog with a sudden pat on the head.
Once the dog has sniffed the hand, the child may pet the dog. The
front of the chest or anywhere along the sides of the body will generally
meet with the dog’s favor. Some dogs feel intimidated by a hand going
over their heads, so the top of the head is best left alone. (Children seem
to have a tendency to want to pound rather than to pet here anyway—
another reason to teach them not the touch the dog’s head.)
Unknown dogs should not be hugged. While you can desensitize
your own dog into accepting, even enjoying, this gesture, other dogs
may not tolerate it well. Being restrained in such a fashion may raise
the automatic “fight or flight” response in the dog.
Children should not stare at dogs. Though this may be natural
behavior in human children, it is impolite and potentially challenging
in canine parlance. Stable, well-behaved dogs will recognize the lack
of ill intentions, but other dogs may not. Teach children to play a
game of looking at dogs out of the corners of their eyes.
Impress upon children that they should move more slowly around
dogs and should speak more quietly. Tell them that wild dogs have to hunt to eat and that the easiest things for them to hunt are injured
animals, which is what kids look like to dogs when they jerk their
arms around and move in fits and starts. The child needs to help the
dog recognize him or her as a small human.
When encountering unaccompanied dogs, a child’s behavior is
even more critical. Children should never initiate contact with dogs on
their own, even if they know the dogs. A dog behind a fence in her
yard may act quite differently from one out for a walk with a member
of the household. Or the dog may be suffering an ear mite infestation
and be very reactive to being touched on the head. For any
number of reasons, dogs alone are best left alone.
If an unsupervised dog approaches a child, the child should stand
still, avoid eye contact and in a whisper, as if telling a secret to a good
friend, recite a nursery rhyme or a song or anything that comes to
mind. Quiet rhythmic talking can have a calming effect on both the
child and the dog. This is not a natural reaction for an adult human in
such a situation, let alone a child, so the idea must be planted deeply.
You can practice when you’re out with a child and you see someone
walking a dog. Have the child demonstrate the aforementioned stranger dog safety response, and reward him or her with being allowed
to pet the dog (with the dog owner’s permission, of course).
When on her own, a child should stay in the safety posture for a
few moments, then if the unsupervised dog is not approaching, back
slowly away. Children should never run within sight of a strange dog.
The first dog bite I ever received, at the age of seven or eight, was in
the back of the leg from a very nice young dog who simply couldn’t
resist chasing and grabbing when I ran.
If the dog does approach and seems aggressive or is growling or
barking, trying to edge away may inspire an attack. If adults are in the
area, a single shout for help may bring some assistance without setting
off the dog. Shouting brings its own risks, however, and should
be reserved for serious situations. Holding something as seemingly
insignificant as a sheet of paper or a notebook between you and the
dog may direct the dog’s attention to the object rather than to you.
Back away while holding the object out in front of you.
Children must understand not to bother dogs that are eating or
in possession of some object they may not want to relinquish. While
the rules for dogs (in the next section) within the household are that
no objects, including food bowls, are guarded, outside dogs aren’t
subject to these rules. Children also should not disturb dogs who are
sleeping. The phrase “let sleeping dogs lie” has good safety sense
behind it, because a dog who is awakened suddenly may be startled
into defensive behavior.
Under no circumstances should a child hit, poke or prod a dog.
Those looking for trouble are likely to find it.
If you approach all of this in a calm, matter-of-fact manner and
present these techniques as the proper way to converse with canines,
you can educate a child without going overboard and making him or
her afraid of dogs.

THE TRAINING PROGRAM FOR DOGS
Just like everyone else in the family, the dog should have a place where
she can go when she doesn’t want to be disturbed. This might be a
roomy open-door crate or a laundry room. Whatever area you use,must not be bothered. Relate the dog’s special space to the children’s
own rooms, and remind them that they don’t want people just bursting
into their private space all the time. If you see the dog starting to
get stressed, take the dog to her place, offer a toy or a chew and leave
her there to calm down (but free to come out when she wants). The
dog will soon learn she can go there on her own.
If the dog has access to the yard, make sure that she won’t be at
the mercy of passing children. Dogs behind fences tend to be a little
more guarded about who can come near them, and some children,
usually boys, can’t seem to resist trying to get the dog to bark and
lunge at the fence. By fencing a dog yard within the outer fence, you
provide a buffer zone for the dog and remove most of the temptation.
Do not tie a dog in an unfenced yard. That frustrates the dog and
leaves her an unprotected target for teasing. If you must restrain a dog
without a fence, at least use an overhead cable runner so that the dog
has more freedom of movement. Bear in mind, however, that a great
percentage of dog bites to children are inflicted by tied-out dogs.
It doesn’t matter whether you adopt a puppy or an adult dog; you
must gently and gradually accustom the dog to as many people, places
and situations as possible. Being used to children is certainly a major
socialization issue. Even if you don’t have children in your household,
you should still take the time to introduce children to your dog. Not
all parents teach their children to approach dogs slowly and ask permission
before petting. Sooner or later you will probably see a child
running toward your dog yelling, “Puppy, puppy!” and flailing and
grabbing at the dog. If your dog has had no experience with such
behavior, there’s no telling what her reaction will be. All dogs should
be accustomed to being handled in ways typical of children—hugs
around the neck and tugs on ears and tails—and the sights and
sounds of children at large.
After your new dog has had a few days to settle into your household,
start inviting people over. Don’t have a party for a hundred
guests, but have two to five people at a time. Try for as much variety
as possible—men, women, children, tall, short, boisterous, refined,
with beards, hats or glasses. Enlist the services of your mail carrier or
package delivery person if you can. If they take time now to introduce
themselves and provide a few treats and pats, it could prevent the dog from barking at these people for the next 10 or 15 years! This
also allows your dog to get used to seeing people in uniform, a subtle
nicety that dogs recognize quite readily.
It’s best not to force people on your dog, but simply have the dog
in the room and let her make the approach. Give your guests treats
they can use to reward the dog when she initiates friendly contact.
Gradually let kids behave more like kids so that the dog gets used to
shrill voices and spastic movement.
If you find that your dog does not react well to children and
doesn’t seem to be improving over time, you will need to manage such
encounters for the life of the dog. My newest dog, Nestle, a shelter
adoption, showed me almost immediately that young boys drove him
wild. Just seeing boys running and playing in the distance was enough
to start him leaping in the air and screaming. I enlisted my nephews
to start on desensitization, and we got Nestle calmed down, but he
still does not trust or accept the advances of boys he doesn’t know.
I’ve taught him to come to me and let me handle the matter if a boy
approaches him. Part of our pet therapy visits consists of doing tricks
for the children in day care at the convalescent center we visit, with
the children safely behind a fence.
Nestle will probably never like young male children—he may
have reason, given that most of his facial whiskers were cut off and
one ear bore the imprint of human teeth when I got him. As long as
I’m with him, his response is safe and reliable, and I’ll never put him
in the position of being around children without me present.
Even these kinds of problems can be managed, but it’s best to see
that they don’t arise in the first place.
Puppies need to stay with their mothers and littermates until at
least 8 weeks and preferably 12 weeks of age. They receive nearly all
of their training in how to communicate with and act around other
dogs during this period of life. Dog trainers are discovering a connection
between puppies leaving their litters too soon and all sorts of
behavioral problems later in life. The breeder of the litter should be
taking care of early socialization during these first dozen weeks, too,
so that puppies are eager to explore the world when they go to their
new homes.
This is the ideal situation, of course, and not always the one
with which you’ll be dealing. Even without this excellent start in life,though, you can help your dog to learn the three basic skills that will
see her safely through life—be slow to react, be quick to recover and
inhibit any bite.

PROMOTING SAFETY FOR CHILDREN AROUND DOGS

Regardless of all the positive aspects of owning a dog, parents should
not give in to requests for a dog, no matter how urgent, without carefully
thinking the matter through. While children can toss aside a
game or toy a month later with nothing more than a monetary sense of loss, a dog cannot be likewise discarded. Even if a child swears to
be totally responsible for the dog, it won’t happen. Parents will need
to see to veterinary care, licensing and training, even if the child is as
diligent as promised about feeding, exercising and playing with the
dog. Often, even feeding and walking the dog will soon become the
parent’s tasks as the child loses interest. So it’s essential that the entire
family wants a dog. Anything less will likely result in strife over dogrelated
chores. The dog will often be relegated to the backyard, where
she will be lonely, neglected and miserable.
Having a child and a dog in the family definitely requires more
work. Trainer Mandy Book characterized the adult responsibility as
“Supervise. Supervise. Supervise. Oh, did I mention supervise? And
don’t forget to supervise. Work on possession and food bowl exercises.
Teach the dog to enjoy rough handling and screaming, really like
it. Give the dog a place to go, when it gets too much, where the child
can’t follow. Don’t ever assume there won’t be a problem. Don’t ever
assume the dog will grow out of a problem. And oh yeah, supervise.”
Book is facetious to make a point: Lack of supervision can result
in a dog bite. Nearly all those reports of family dogs who “bite without
warning” are actually reports of families who failed to observe the
warning signs. So, the first safety tip is that the family must be ready
to welcome a dog into its midst, and willing to give the time to make
the dog a worthwhile family member.
Choice of dog may be important, depending somewhat on the
child’s age. Keep in mind that generalizations are just that, and that
no matter what breed characteristics you may read, each dog is an
individual. A breed noted for even temper and gentleness can still
include aggressive individuals, just as a highly reactive feisty breed can
have calm and laid-back members. Keep in mind that the following
observations are general in nature and should neither condemn nor
sanctify a breed.
Although Cocker Spaniels have been popular family dogs for
many years, in many studies they are the number one breed for dog
bites, and nearly always bite family members. Other studies rank
Chihuahuas as number one. Terriers in general can be active and easily
aroused and may bite without any ill intent. Herding dogs may nip
in an attempt to corral children into a manageable flock.

Many of the breeds recommended for families are part of the
Hound and Sporting Groups. Golden Retrievers have often been
called the perfect dog for children, but as they became more popular,
incidents of aggression have risen. Labrador Retrievers are often
touted as good family dogs, although some familiar with the breed say
to stay away from the chocolate variety and others caution to avoid
hunting lines. Newfoundlands and Old English Sheepdogs have been
popularized as “nannies,” and can be considered generally reliable
(but large enough to knock over small children merely by turning
around). Bloodhounds, Basset Hounds and Bulldogs are all recommended
for their equanimity. And don’t discount mixed breeds.
While you may not be able to predict exactly what the coat will look
like or precisely how much she’ll weigh when fully grown, you can
conduct the same sort of temperament check with a mixed breed that
you can with a purebred.
Whatever dog you bring into the home (we’ll talk about how to
make your selection later in this chapter), you need to do all you can
to accustom her to the sometimes annoying attentions of children.
Many problems arise around food bowls, so you should work to
avoid them. Make a game out of dropping little tasty tidbits into the
bowl while the dog is eating. If it’s not an issue, pick the bowl up, add
some extra treats and give it back to the dog. When you have done
some obedience work, have the dog sit and stay while you put the
bowl down. Children should not bother dogs while they are eating,
but in case they do, you don’t want the dog to turn instantly into a
slavering beast bent on defending her meal.
Families with children can become quite loud at times. While it’s
certainly understandable for dogs to react to sudden loud noises, they
shouldn’t take it out on the noisemaker or whoever happens to be
standing closest to them at the time. The best family dogs can sleep
right through the usual family background noise. If yelling is your
family’s style, have family members shout back and forth to each other
while you feed the dog some cookies.
Children also move in short jerky bursts and often flail their arms
around. This is a tough one for dogs. Such erratic movement triggers
their prey instinct and makes them want to chase and grab. Acting on
such impulses can be the last mistake a dog will be allowed to make.
Kids Speaking Canine 165
You can tell young people not to behave like this around dogs, and
perhaps your own children might even listen, but their friends probably
won’t, so you need to teach the dog how to behave in such
circumstances.
The urge to chase can be very strong, and you probably won’t be
able to banish it entirely. Instead, provide the dog with an acceptable
outlet. Teach the dog to chase and fetch tennis balls. Control access
to these toys and only bring them out to play the chase game. Then
start having your children play nearby while you play with the dog.
Next, have the chase toy out on the ground when your youngsters
start running and jumping around, and encourage the dog to get the
toy so that you can play the game. The association should become
automatic, so that when things start getting wild, the dog looks for a toy to grab. A dog with a toy in her mouth can’t be biting anything
else. You are responsible for ensuring that the toy is available to the
dog in circumstances where she may need it.
Most police dogs are rewarded at the end of drug searches or
criminal apprehensions with the chance to play with their ball or
a rolled-up towel. It’s a potent motivator and can avoid otherwise
deadly problems.
Teach your children how to behave when meeting dogs (which
we’ll cover in the next section), then take them somewhere that will
provide encounters with plenty of dogs, such as an obedience trial.
Watching how closely your children adhere to what they’ve been
taught will give you a good idea of their level of control. Seeing all
those dogs is pretty exciting—don’t be surprised if everything you
thought they’d learned falls by the wayside. It just means they’re not
ready yet and you have more training to do.
If there’s already a dog in the home when children arrive, then it
is up to you to make that dog as “bombproof ” as possible (meaning that nothing within the bounds of reason will set the dog off). It also
falls to you to manage circumstances at all times so that neither child
nor dog is put in a situation of potentially losing control.

THE ADVANTAGES OF DOG-OWNING CHILDREN

A dog confers many instant advantages on a child. Dogs are attractive
to most children, so a child who has a dog becomes more attractive
by association. In the often-cruel world of childhood, such an icebreaker
can be invaluable. Those active in the realm of the physically
challenged know well that while a child in a wheelchair may seem
“different,” unapproachable and even slightly scary, a child in a wheelchair
with a canine companion is seen by other kids as a sort of different
kid who has a dog. The possibilities for social interaction
increase, so much so that some dogs who accompany such children
are not service dogs in the usual sense—they don’t pick up dropped
items or pull the wheelchair from place to place. They’re social facilitator
dogs, there simply to make the “different” child more socially
acceptable to his or her peers.
This phenomenon isn’t confined to the disabled. Children in general
with dogs in the home tend to have more visits from classmates
and to be more popular. In fact, some classrooms have taken to keeping
a canine mascot in the room, often the teacher’s own dog. One
study found that when a pet was part of the class setting, self-esteem
scores increased significantly over one school year. Even more encouragingly,
those children who initially had the lowest scores showed the
most substantial improvement.
A dog also offers a kind and nonjudgmental ear that’s always
available to listen to problems and heartaches, and a warm furry body
to snuggle up to. The advantages conferred on a child by a dog not
only help make the turbulent years of youth more pleasant, but last
well into adulthoood. Remember the Fortune 500 CEOs I mentioned
in the last chapter? They credit their childhood pets with teaching them the responsibility and discipline required in their highpowered
adult lives. A measure of their self-confidence probably
derived from their pets as well. Nearly all of them continue to be dog
owners in their adult lives.
In fact, the benefits of pet ownership extend to the entire family.
A survey found that 70 percent of pet-owning families reported an
increased sense of fun and even greater happiness as a direct result of
getting a pet. Interaction among family members increased, and both
adults and children felt that the pets were sensitive to their moods and
emotional well-being.
A dog rarely has anything more important to do than play with a
child. In this often hectic world, this can be a godsend, but it can also
be a problem, depending on the age and maturity of the child.
Remember those dog bite statistics. The vast majority result from
family or neighborhood pets, not from strange dogs roaming loose.

Communicating with your dog

We do not recommend using the word “no” in training your dog. Just yelling
“No!” at the poor dog for everything and anything will only confuse him and
make him neurotic. There is no exercise called “No.” Instead, be specific when
training your dog. Tell him what you want him to do rather than what you don’t
want him to do. If you don’t want him to jump on you, for example, tell him
to “Sit.”
Similarly, avoid (get out of the habit of ) using your dog’s name as a reprimand
or as a substitute for a command, because this just leaves the poor dog to try and
figure out what you want. Use the name of your dog to get his attention and then
follow with a command, such as “Felix, sit.” When you call your dog’s name, he
should consider it a pleasant experience.
Communicate with your dog in a positive manner. Listen to yourself when you
interact with your dog. Do you sound pleasant and positive, or unpleasant and
negative?
Instead of telling your dog what you
don’t want him to do, train him to
respond to specific commands so that
you can tell him what you want him to
do. Put him in a position where you
can praise him and tell him how good
he is.

Your dog is a dog
Your efforts to train your dog are
doomed to failure if you think he has human standards and reasoning abilities. He
certainly does not experience guilt. Blaming the dog because “he ought to know
better” or “he shouldn’t have done it” or “how could he do this to me” will not
improve his behavior. He also does not “understand every word you say”—if he
did, he would not need training.

How Your Dog Thinks

Of course, dogs think. They can also problem solve. Unlike people, however,
they are unable to reason. And just like people, some are smarter
than others. In this chapter, you’ll explore how your dog thinks and how
you can tell what he is thinking about.
CAN YOUR DOG READ YOUR MIND?
Dogs often give the appearance of being able to read your mind. What happens
in actuality is that by observing you, and studying your habits and movements,
they learn to anticipate your actions. Since dogs communicate with each other
through body language, they quickly become experts at reading yours.
For example, before leaving for work, Marcia always put Bella in her crate. It
wasn’t long before Bella went into her crate on her own when Marcia was about
to leave. “What a clever puppy,” thought Marcia. “She knows I’m going to work.”
What Bella observed was that just before leaving for work, Marcia put on her
makeup and then crated her. Bella’s cue to go into her crate was Marcia’s putting
on her makeup. Then one evening, before dinner guests were to arrive, Marcia
started putting on makeup. When Bella immediately went into her crate, Marcia
realized her dog had not been reading her mind, but had learned her routine
through observation.
“READING” YOUR DOG
Just as your dog Felix takes his cues from watching you, so can you learn to interpret
what he is thinking by watching him. The more time you spend observing
your dog, the better you get at interpreting what’s on his mind.
From prior observation, you know Felix has the habit of counter surfing—putting
his front feet on the counter to see whether there is anything edible up there he can
steal. Since he has done this a number of times before, you recognize his intentions
by the look on his face—head and ears are up, whiskers pointed forward, intent
stare—and the way he moves in the direction of the counter—deliberately, with his
tail wagging in happy anticipation.
At that precise point you should interrupt Felix’s thoughts. When he is thinking
about something you don’t want him to do is the ideal time to intervene.
In a stern voice say, “Not so fast young man,” or “Stop,” or “Ah, ah,” or sharply
clap your hands. Then give him a command incompatible with “counter surfing,”
such as “Sit” or “Down” .
If you catch Felix in the act of trying to steal food—he already has his front
paws planted on the counter—firmly tell him to stop, take him by his collar, and
physically remove his paws from the counter.
Oops—too late!
Visualize yourself preparing a piece of meat for dinner. You leave the counter to
answer the phone and upon your return, the meat is gone. You know Felix ate it.
Your first reaction is anger. Immediately Felix looks guilty, and you assume it is
because he knows he has done wrong.
In fact, Felix knows no such thing. He is reacting to your anger and wonders
why you are angry, and, perhaps based on prior experience, expects to be the target
of your wrath.
Do not attempt any discipline after the offending deed has been accomplished.
Your dog cannot make the connection between the discipline and what he just
did. Your dog may look guilty, but not because he understands what he has done;
he looks guilty only because he understands you are upset.
Unless you can catch him in the act, or, ideally, while he is thinking about stealing
the meat, reprimands are too late. If he has the meat in his mouth, take it away
from him. If he has already eaten the meat, it’s too late to do anything on your
part—the meat is gone, and you should do nothing after the fait accompli. (Moral
of the story: Don’t leave meat unattended on the counter!)

how to repel fleas

Before we "at war" to eradicate fleas, should note further that the dog like ticks on a damp, dirty, water, grass and bark.

Fleas attack a dog will not indiscriminately, whether ordinary dog, or dog races, dog fur or feathers short term.

I for 3 years as a businessman seriously chow chow breed dog pups, both derived from his own breeding or buying from other breeders throughout Indonesia. Not infrequently the pups from the class, lice have fun and dance with the wishes of life by sucking the blood on the body anjing.kecil.

What I do is to first clean the cage or bed of the dog cage that will occupy it.

Because the place was dirty and not kept clean, even if the dog flea-free, would be infected fleas quickly.

How do I clean the cage?

I used to use Rinso powder, then brushed to clean the cage and should be very clean, then rinsed thoroughly and must be completely dry. If moss is usually brushed and cleaned by using a new porstex then brush again using Rinso powder. And most importantly should be drained and if it is possible to drying to dry.

What about the dog's body that has been dominated by ticks? Is MANDI ROUTINE

Dogs in good health I would bathe with warm water, because warm water will remove dirt dirt at the base of the skin is dirty, if necessary use the brush bristles are very smooth so that no fur loss and skin sores. While flea bath will be obvious that hiding behind the dog's fur and immediately taken alone but should not be killed with a push or until the bleeding, with blood on fleas, flea eggs so many stores and when washed, will live again and hide dilubang gutters, and will run back into the cage and the perch body dog, the dog sleeping at the time.

If fleas are too many dogs, can be done also by means of the treatment are: injection / injection is carried out by the vet, or can be done alone by using IVOMEX-2ml of 0.5 ml depending on the dog and the severity of the attack ticks.

Ivomex, in addition to the outside menbantu fleas, ticks also are living in dog blood. Besides it can also treat skin diseases caused by fleas.

Most importantly, for handling this, the dog was in good health should be diligent to be bathed with warm water, because if you clean leather dog, fleas are usually unwilling to live in the dog.

I am a businessman chow chow puppy in particular, rarely and almost never deal with lice, because the previous place I can freely say every dog ​​ticks and that will go to my place, would be my selection with a rigorous, well fleas, health, and should bathed in advance.

For regular maintenance by using using lice medicine, almost never because I always chow chow bath routine 2 times a week, unless other problems, I just use the flea drops.

All I do anymore, if revoke a flea on a dog's body, I usually give 1 drop of eucalyptus oil on the tick bite, so it does not happen mild irritation.

Thus do I eradicate the infestation is very effective to apply to pet dogs. But all this is purely my version, and everyone certainly has their own way to eradicate ticks on pets.

sport hunting pigs with dogs (unique tradition of Sumatra)

Woof! Woof! Woof! Eits, this is no ordinary dog, you know. These are the hounds are great!

The dogs are great hunters are always cared for and maintained daily by the owners who live around Lake Singkarak, West Sumatera, Indonesia. When the sun began to emerge from the horizon Bukit Barisan. the activity of life on the edge of the lake began.

A father came to bathe the dogs. This dog is not ordinary dogs.
This is a hunting dog used by sport hunting enthusiasts.
Woof! Woof! Barking dogs began to enliven a choppy Lake Batur. Dozens of dogs began to swim to feel the fresh water lake in the morning, while enjoying rubbing scented soap and foam.
That said, caring for hounds was not difficult. Every morning, dogs are invited streets so as not anxious.
Eat rice three times should not be late. Drinking milk 'bears' first times a week. Sleeping in a warm houses.

Before hunting, dogs are fed raw eggs 2 eggs and health pills.

Least once a week, the dog should be bathed his body does not itch and in order to avoid ticks. Wow, really spoiled, yes.
Sport hunting with dogs carried out in forests around the mountain. Hunting is done by bringing hundreds of dog's entourage.

Animals that are hunted wild boar farming is often destructive. Once hunting, these dogs can catch wild pigs tail 10-15. Tsk, tsk, tsk ..
After hunting, the dogs should be bathed in order not agitated and his body refreshed.

Choosing a puppy dog Talent

Many positive things can be done if we can figure out what will happen in the future. Similarly with our puppy. We definitely want to know if the new dog puppies we buy or get from our new parent we can train these dogs and excel in the future, or even have a temperament that is less good.
For that we need to know early to predict how the trend of their properties. If the puppy has a bad character or temperament, does not mean he has no hope. It can still be repaired and it is our responsibility to change it.
There are couple of types of tests to predict the tendency of the nature of the puppy, and its function is more informative and later we as pemiliklah that should fix it.
This test aims to examine the capacity of dominant puppy in a special group. There are couple of steps to be able to find the puppy belongs to us, including which categories.
A. Rank Test
- Explore Behaviour:

    Bring the puppy that you touch to a new place. Perform these tests one by one the puppies.

    Look at the puppy wants to explore the new environment.

    Rate A, B, C and D as an appraisal.

    A value given to a puppy who will explore the new environment.

    Value of B is given to a puppy that barks and tries to explore a new environment.

    Value of C is given to the puppy feel lost, circling, whining as he looked around him.

    D value is given to a puppy who did not move anything.
- Confident to Stranger:

    After 30 seconds, appears a stranger and then see whether the puppy is approached with confidence or just shy not even approached.

    A value given to a puppy that comes with confidence and biting.

    Then try to run, see if the puppy has a desire to follow.

    A value given to a puppy that ran followed with confidence.
- Response to Visual Stimulus:

    We can throw foreign objects, such as a plastic bottle without touching the puppies.

    A value given to a puppy that jumps to the object and took a bite.

    Value of B is given to the puppy's attention to the object carefully, and then play with it and learn it.

    Value of C is given to puppies who tend to fear and keep a distance with the object or moving away even a whimper.

    D value is given to a puppy who looks scared, get out quickly while whining and being away from the object even in intervals of several seconds.
- Response to Auditory Stimuli:

    By the time you hear a strange, like a trumpet or a pan that was hit hard, so our puppies can be given following the assessment.

    A value given to a puppy who raised his head and his ears stand leads to the sound source and he remained in place.

    Value of B is given to a puppy who fled in fear, but finally dare to approach and wait for the next reaction.

    Value of C is given to a puppy who fled in fear but in the end dare to approach if called upon by the Handler.

    D value is given to a puppy who fled in fear and dare not return.
- Dominance Rank:

    Terlentangkan puppy with all four legs facing upward and gently hold her breasts for 30 seconds, and see what his reaction.

    A value given for the puppy to bite and try to fight, and the value of E for the puppy quiet and not do anything.
- Social Dominance:

    Hugging / hug puppies and touch his head toward the back.

    A value given to a puppy who dodge and fight back and the value of E for a puppy that does not do anything.
- Social Hardness:

    Now pick up the puppy by using two hands on his chest.

    A value given for the puppy to bite and try to fight, and the value of E for the puppy quiet and not do anything.
- Alpha Test (Do together):

    Giving food to the puppies where they should have access to the food bowl.

    A value given to a puppy who does not fight, eat in peace until he sat down and no other puppy who came to disturb him.

    Value of B is given to puppies often change positions when eating, but still eat in peace.

    C values ​​are given for each puppy that barks.

    D value is given to the puppy still wait until the others finished eating.
- When feeding:

    A value given for the best first puppy managed to reach the nipple.

    Value of B is given to a puppy that both reach the nipple.

    Value of C is given to the puppy reaching the nipple but still want to choose your nipples sucked.

    D value is given to a puppy who fought to get the nipple.
     
B. Test Environment
For the puppy that has passed the Rank Test, was taken to a park with a level of distraction (distraction) middle above and see the puppy's behavior.
C. Biting Test
Take the puppy to a place without any distraction (distraction) and give a towel, cloth or tug to be bitten. Look at the attitude of the puppy to bite.

    If puppies bite and still = good

    If puppies bite and noisy = tolerable, can be trained on the training

    If puppies bite and chew ='ll take the train

    Throw a metal pipe, if it is taken back that means good
Biting and biting and quiet with noisy prey drive is the same, only different emotions.

From the overall test above, in general, we can assess that puppy with the highest value of A, it is definitely an Alpha.
Sometimes, mistakes can happen because the owner assessment "miss" in the behavior of the children noticed the dog during a test performed.


From the above test results, then we can determine the puppy Alpha, Beta, Omega, Mid and Low Rank Rank with the character traits and tasks below.


- Alpha (Male / Female)

    Genetic / True Alpha: Alpha from within him.

    Pack Alpha: Alpha in litternya.
Duties: The leader, protector packs, decision makers, controlling breeding.
Character: Confident, dominant, intelligence, self-calm demeanor, a loner.
- Beta
Duties: Actors and run the command, discipline.
Character: Aggressive, domineering, ostentatious, agitators, intelligence.
- Omega
Duties: Maintain harmony pack, melt the tense situation.
Character: A good level of communication, high tolerance, can work together, intelligence.
- Mid Rank
Duties: The Hunter, puppy sitter, teaching dogs hunting for teens, the largest population.
Character: Following orders, the high levels of learning, can work together, moderate to high levels of violence.
- Low Rank
Duties: Supervision, the giver knows the dangers of foreign matters.
Character: Soft and very sensitive.

why dogs like in practice?

why dogs like in practice?
Just as with humans, dogs are creatures who socialize the dog is always assumed that humans are part of social life.

Do not be surprised if they really like to live together with humans and treats people as his master.
What often happens in our lives is that we are not aware of having abandoned the ultimate desire is to socialize with humans and when we're bringing our dog to the house and generally kmasih infancy and childhood we often hold her attention so extraordinary but when growing up naughty instincts begin to emerge , slowly slowly we started to try to educate and often in a paste with a penalty.
Day after day later we as owners begin to feel upset and angry for all the naughtiness, and we begin to punish him uncontrollably and more severe is the punishment that we give is not to make the dog become a deterrent but it is increasingly becoming so.
And in the end we mencapakkannya into the cage nor do we sell to others for their misbehavior has on him.
Basically all the mischief that causes the young dog is very reasonable as kids, we need to teach manners to our pet dog and directing naughtiness in a positive direction by getting to play or train.
So when he was growing up all the behaviors that we did not expect we can avoid and eventually your dog will grow up well without having any trauma to his past.

Car travel your dog's

Whether you are taking your dog on a long car ride or
just driving to the veterinarian's office, it is important
that your dog be safe and comfortable in your car.
For safety, your dog should either be restrained in a
seatbelt harness or confined to his crate while you
drive. Properly restraining your dog will help keep him
settled and help prevent you from becoming distracted
by your dog.
To help your dog become comfortable riding in your
car, you should take him for short car rides on a
regular basis, starting when he is a puppy. Make sure
you take car rides to places your dog enjoys, such as
the park or a friend's house. If you only take your dog
for a car ride when he needs to go to the veterinarian,
he will begin to associate the car with negative
experiences.
To help prevent your dog from suffering from car
sickness, avoid feeding him for several hours before
a trip. Make sure that you always monitor your dog
closely for signs of distress while on a car ride.

Keeping your dog properly
restrained in your car is safest
for your dog, yourself and
other passengers in the car.
Many pet supply stores sell
seatbelt harnesses that are
specially made to keep dogs
properly restrained while
riding in a car.
You can train your dog to sit
quietly in his crate when in
your car. See page 62 for
information on crate training
your dog.
Being in a crate or travel
carrier is the safest option for
a young puppy when in a car.
Your dog's crate should
be secured inside the
car to ensure that the
crate will not move in
the car.
Make sure that the
seatbelt harness you
choose fits your dog
and has a wide chest
strap.
Note: You should not
use a seatbelt harness
to restrain a young
puppy in a car.